Methods of Mounting the Work Piece in a Lathe for
Best Precision
The methods
of mounting a work piece, in descending order of precision, along with some
comments are:
Between Centres. This is the "uber-precise" method.
Work can be repeatedly removed and re-mounted with guaranteed
absolute accuracy. Treat the centre drill cones with great
respect. Everything will depend on them being clean and not bruised.
If
a tap in or press fit needs to be tried, use a hollow point pusher or drift to
avoid distorting the centre holes.
Damaged
center cones may be re-machined in a four jaw chuck, with steady if required.
Face Plate. This is a method not suited to many classes of
work. When used, repeatability of truth is as assured as with
between centres, so long as the mating faces remain clean and free
of blemish, and your dial gauge is accurate.
For
machining flat surfaces on irregular shaped objects, this method should often
be the first choice of set up, as it offers
much more rigidity than the mill.
Collets. These
are almost, but not quite as good as between centres. Removing and replacing work will introduce a
degree
of run-out, unless the work piece can be replaced exactly in
the same position.
The
degree of run-out created on replacing work will depend on how well the collets
were ground in the first instance.
Tapered mandrel. This is a good method for cylindrical work
that has to be returned to the machine after trying a fit etc. Essentially the
mandrel remains in the machine, is very slightly tapered near the chuck, and is
turned to a neat parallel fit
at the outer end. A keeper nut and washer may be required for
left hand turning. For longer work the outer end should be
supported on a centre. The work returns to a very close
tolerance. Very good for batch work too.
Four Jaw Chuck. Work in a four jaw chuck can be returned to
the machine and trued up repeatedly. The run-out is as small
as your patience is long. (Practice makes truing up pretty
quick.) The main problem I find with four jaw chucks is that the axis
of the jaws never points along the axis of the machine
spindle. Thus work trued near the chuck face will almost always run out further
down the bed ways. There are work-arounds for this problem though. Don't force
the work true with a centre. The work
will spring back when released, and may well "walk"
out of the chuck jaws (ouch!).
A fixed steady will also produce repeatable accuracy in conjunction with a four
jaw chuck. Make sure the steady is on the
same axis as the spindle or it's walkies again. A strip of well
oiled linen backed abrasive tape interposed between the steady
points and the work, will not wear like the brass steady points
can. (Abrasive side out of course.)
Travelling
steadies- umm, rather not mention these. Travellers are an art to work
successfully with, and it seems I'm not an
artist of the required type. Without great care, these steadies
will produce all manner of irregularities at small diameter.
The
points wear quickly, and one can find they are turning tapers where they thought
parallel was happening.
Three Jaw Chuck.
These chucks will never run really true.
There are just too many variables to maintain any decent sort
of control. Even the super true expensive types will gradually
wear and become less reliable. Grinding the jaws will only reap benefits at one
diameter of work, and then only temporarily, although results may be “good enough”
for much work and can
salvage an otherwise useless chuck. These chucks are good for work
that is to be machined all over in one set-up, or where
run out on portions of the work doesn't matter. Returning work
to a three jaw chuck will always introduce a degree of error.
In
some classes of work, turning the work in relation to the chuck and trying the
work in various positions will reveal a position where the run-out is
tolerable.
There are other pretty accurate methods, such as temporary fixings as used by
watch and clock makers. These usually involve machining something fixed to the
nose of the spindle that will provide a snug fit to the work, or be slotted to
work like a special collet in a three or four jaw chuck.
Clay.
Clayton Bonser